Islands on the Lugu Lake, Ninglang, Lijiang

Lugu Lake is an alpine lake located in a relatively low basin of the Hengduan Mountain System which caused for crustal movement to form a plateau karst downfaulted lake. With an area of 58.8 square kilometers, Lugu Lake is in a shape of horseshoe which can be divided into Liang Lake Scenic Area and Cao Lake Scenic Area with one third in Yunnan Province and two thirds in Sichuan Province. The lake is composed of 5 independent islands, 4 peninsulas, 1 long island with sea dyke, 14 bays, 17 sandbanks and 21 bajadas.

There are 5 independent islands and the famous islands will be Xiwa'e Island, Lige Island and Liwubi Island. This 3 islands are the famous island which you should visit whenever you are here. There are many docks around the islands to provide you the sightseeing boat service. The difference is the dock that is nearer to the island you wish to go will be cheaper. 

A unique boat that is used by the Mosuo Tribe is this Zhu Cao Chuan. It is 3 manned boat which have to fully manually row. One boat can fit up to 10 pax. The government not permitting any motorized boat to be operated on this lake to reduce pollution. Not just that, no fishing, no hunting and no plucking any plants or trees on this vicinity. The effort is great to maintain the flora and fauna around this lake.

If you do not have 10 pax, you have to wait for other passengers to come to tag along with you to depart to the desire island. Usually you do not have to wait long, it is about 10-15 minutes (max). You can buy or bring some bread with you before you on-board the Zhu Cao Chuan. The bread is to feed the Seagulls and Mandarin Ducks. Usually the Seagulls will get all the food.

If you think the price is very expensive for you, you should watch the video clip below. It is not easy at all. Every penny is well paying for for their hard work. Do support for the locals' hard work.

We went to three places which are Liwubi Island, Princess Island and 亲爱的客栈, The Inn. In the Liwubi Island, we decided to circle around the island. So from the initial CNY50/pax, we have to add additional CNY30/pax. Is it worth it? Nothing special for circling to the back of Liwubi Island but the extra time on the boat is worth it. It was relaxing and enjoying the scenery of the beautiful lake and welcoming the cool breeze.

The first stop is at Liwubi Island. This is one of the island that you have to visit. Liwubi Island, Xiwa’e Island and Lige Island have been called the three magical islands of Lugu Lake. Liwubi Island was an island the Mosuo dwelled on during their earliest years in the region. The island has a temple, Liwubi Monastery. The monastery, a lama temple of the Yellow sect, was constructed in 1634. It was destroyed in the early 1960s as evidence of feudal superstition. 

During the 1980s, Luosang Yishi Living Buddha presided over the reconstruction of Liwubi Monastery. In 1983, the Ayunshan superintendent tomb was rebuilt. The island emerged from a rocky economy and now is thriving again. The island is shaded by trees and is alive with birds and fragrant flowers, attracting a steady steam of tourists delighted by its green landscapes.

 Mosuo people will come to Liwubi Island to chant scriptures every lunar June 4th. We only have 30 minutes on the island and it is just enough. The whole journey took about 2 hours. Just take note that you cannot take photos inside the monastery. 

We made another trip from another dock to 亲爱的客栈, The Inn, Princess Island and Caohai Lake. The trip cost us CNY120/pax and the total journey took us almost 3 hours because during the sunset, the wind was too strong and the boat is like not moving at all. It was tough and tiring for them to row all the way back. So I would recommend to avoid sunset tour because the wind is stronger during sunset.

亲爱的客栈, The Inn becomes famous after Hunan China TV began their reality show here about 5 celebrities managing an inn all by themselves. This was their first season with 12 episodes and it was a decent show. You can check it out on Youtube. After finish watching the show, you will see how beautiful Lugu Lake is. Right now this place giving back to the owner to do his business. It is an expensive hotel which cost more than CNY1000 per night.

The next stop is the Princess Island which is just right in front of the 亲爱的客栈, The Inn. There is nothing special on this island. Princess Island which is originally named Bowa Island has an area of 666.7 sq m, adjacent to green waters all around. It is almost 1000m from northeast bank of Lugu Lake. To the east of this island are endless grass sea and lake water. The former Zhawoluo Tu-Szu Mansion is about 2000m away from this island. In 1943, the last Tu-Szu Labaochen in Zuosuo resorted to Chairman Xikang Province, Liwenhui, and married Xiao Shuming, the daughter of Xiao Xianchen, the chief of Military supply department under Liu Wenhui. He took Xiao Shuming to Bowa Island after returning to Zuosuo, and dispatched over 10 soldiers to protect the island, and changed the Bowa to Princess Island. 

On the island, there was a Siheyuan, a temple and a pillbox, all of which were made of wood and soil, being beautiful and grandeur. Around the Siheyuan, there were Chinese scholar-trees, cypress trees and honey locust. At the back of this Siheyuan, there was a rohdea roth. A road for driving horse was paved around this island. "Princess Mansion" fell into ruin after Xiao Shuming left the island in 1950s. The existing "Princess Mansion" was reconstructed according to the original arrangement. The existing Princess Mansion Relic Museum on this island is one of the " Two Mansions, One Museum and One Center" programs specially built by the local county, and the special museum to demonstrate the life of the last Mosuo Princess, Xiao Shuming, and also one of the important contents for Mosuo homeland construction in Lugu Lake and Mosuo culture protection project.

You only need less than 15 minutes to explore whole Princess Island. It was a really small island which is not worth visiting. The last destination we had is the Caohai Lake where the lake supposed to be filled with long green grass. It is a scene where you see a sea of green grass coming out from the lake. However, during winter, we only see yellow and unattractive grass. It was a pity to come after October month.

Overall, the experience is great. But I only suggest you to go to Liwagu Island, Xiwa'e Island and Caohai Lake (except winter months). As for Ligu Island, I will show to you in my next post that actually you can get there by foot. You don't have to take a boat ride.

Ticket Price: Starts from CNY50/pax
Business Hours: 7.00am - 6.00pm
Recommended?: 4/5